
Cabled Tea Cozy
I love cables! I think I was destined to live someplace cold and rainy, where cable knits are a necessity for warmth and proteciton against the elements. But here in North Carolina there are only a few months a year where you really need something that warm, and several where you would get heat stroke. And so, my addiction gets forced upon inanimate objects. Tea should be warm, right? Perfect! This project is great for when the days are getting warmer and your tea still isn't. This little sweater slips onto the pot and buttons in place, so you can pour without removing it, and the "turtle-neck" keeps the lid in place. The pattern is for a teapot with a 4" tall body and a 14" circumference. If your teapot is much larger, consider adding more pattern repeats or changing your needle size to suit.
Size/Measurements
5" tall (including "collar", 14" circumference
Materials
- 1 skein Knitpicks Telemark (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 103 yards/50 grams) or other sport-weight yarn with same gauge. Shown in Grey Wolf.
- 1 set US #5/3.75mm DPN's
- Cable Needle
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Small crochet hook
Gauge
24 sts/32 rows = 4" in stockinette
Notes
Cable and bobble pattern (15 stitch repeat)
(instructions written for working in round with each row a RS row)
Rows 1 & 3: P2, K1, P3, K1, P2, K6
All even rows 2-24: P2. K1. P3, K1, P2, K6
Row 5: P2, K1, P1, Bobble (K into front and back 5 times, K5tog), P1, K1, P2, C6F (Place 3 sts on cable needle and hold to front of work, K next 3 sts, K 3 sts from needle)
Row 7 & 9: Repeat Row 1
Row 11: P2, K1, P3, K1, P2, C6F
Row 13: P2, K1, P1, Bobble, P1, K1, P2, K6
Row 15: Repeat Row 1
Row 17: Repeat Row 11
Row 19: Repeat Row 1
Row 21: Repeat Row 13
Row 23: Repeat Row 11
Repeat Rows 1-24
Abbreviations
PM: Place Marker
M1: Make 1 (Increase 1 stitch by picking up yarn between two lower stitches and knitting into the back of the loop)
Instructions
- Cast on 90 sts, join in the round.
- Work 5 rounds in 1x1 rib (K1, P1).
- Set up in Cable and Bobble pattern and work 3 rounds.
- Work 1 round to 4th from last st. BO 2 sts (center 2 sts of 6 stitch cable), and transfer last 2 sts to first needle
- Work 3 Rows back and forth in pattern, ending with a WS row.
- Next row (RS): Work 44 sts in pattern, PM, M1, PM, work in pattern to end.
- Work next row (WS) in pattern.
- Work in pattern for 12 rows with an increase at each marker on every RS row (the sts between markers will be in stockinette).
- Work in pattern for 4 rows, but change to 1x1 rib between markers.
- Work next row in pattern, Binding off sts between markers, work to end.
- Work each portion separately in pattern for 8 rows, joining new yarn where needed.
- Cast On 2 sts at end of last needle, join and work round in pattern, decreasing 2 sts in line with each bobble stitch, joining the other side as you go.
- Work 1 round.
- Work round with 1 decrease in line with each popcorn stitch.
- Work 1 round.
- Work round as follows: *P2tog, K2tog, P2tog, K2, ssk, k2, repeat from *.
- Work round: *P3, K2, ssk, k1, repeat from *.
- Work round: *P3, K2, ssk, repeat from *.
- Set up next round in 2x2 rib (K2, P2) and work 16 rounds.
- BO in pattern.
Finishing
- Weave in all yarn tails.
- With remaining yarn, make Bobble button as follows: CO 1 sts. Knit into front and back of st 5 times. Work 3 rows in stockinette. Next row, K5tog and pull tail through.
- Thread tails of bobble through work halfway down one side of the large side opeing. Tie in secure knot on inside of work and weave in ends.
- Crochet a chain 3" long. Thread tails through work on opposite side of opening, lining up with bobble button, tie in secure knot on inside of work and weave in ends
This pattern is copyright © 2009 by julie m. carter. It is intended for personal, noncommercial use. All other uses require permission of the author, including distribution of this pattern through electronic or print media. Reselling copies of this pattern is not allowed, nor is making the item from this pattern for resale anywhere without permission.
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© 2005, 2007, 2009 by Julie M. Carter
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